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Post by Phenotype on Apr 16, 2004 22:53:26 GMT -5
Since this question gets asked constantly I decided to write up a topic about it. First, this technique is commonly referred to ask "Ink Washing" but it's actually done with paint. Secondly, you should use enamels for this, not acrylics.
Basically there are two methods, Method A works for unpainted Zoids and customs but is the preferred method for unpainted Zoids.
METHOD A:
STEP!: Take the color you would like to do the wash in, for example FLat Black.
STEP 2:Take a small brush and fill in the detail
STEP3: Let the paint sit for about 10 minutes so it begins to dry.
STEP 4: Take a rag or paper towel (I recommend paper towel) and dab some paint thinner on it.
STEP 5: Run the thinner along the surface, it will remove the excess paint but the crevices will remain filled, enhancing the detail.
NOTE: This method can also be used with painted Zoids, however it should be noted that two coats of clear claot should be applied to the Zoid prior to this process so the paint will not be stripped when wiping with the towel.
METHOD B:
STEP 1: Find something to mix paint in.
STEP 2: Mix levels of paint and thinner, you will have to experiment with this depending on how thick you want the mix to be. I prefer a mix that's about 2 parts paint and 3 parts thinner.
STEP3: Take a long thin brush, dip it in the wash and gently apply it the area you want to detail. I like my washes runny so that they fill in all the cracks with just one dab of the brush.
NOTE: Sometimes you may have brush marks from where you dabbed which need to be covered up with a little drybrushing.
Those are the two main methods, if anyone has anything useful to add please do so.
-Phenotype
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Post by Al Sweet on Apr 18, 2004 13:06:15 GMT -5
Can you use Indian Ink for the same?
Blkbitcloud1
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Post by darthraider1 on Apr 18, 2004 19:20:57 GMT -5
A site I saw for D&D, when I was randomly looking for inkwash, said something about India ink. They were on the figurines though. If they were talking about metal or plastic, I'm not sure. I've been trying to find where I was but so far no luck.
*edit* found and given to blkbitcloud1; if anyone wants it PM me.
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j*ryu
Sergeant
Live on time, emit no evil.
Posts: 240
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Post by j*ryu on Apr 30, 2004 20:34:42 GMT -5
For panel lining, I usually use Sakura Micron pens which use archival ink, .005 to .1 thickness depending on the level of detail. It leave a nice, clean look. I've also experimented and you can use a q-tip or similar type cloth or sponge to slightly work the ink into areas that are high detail right after you apply the ink while it's still wet. It's a nice, subtle effect. Can you use Indian Ink for the same? Blkbitcloud1 |
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GunBlaster
Sergeant
GunBlaster's got it all!
Posts: 294
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Post by GunBlaster on Jul 3, 2004 7:26:55 GMT -5
If your base coats are done with acrylic paint removing the enamel wash with thinnner doesn't mess up the paint job, at least from what I've experienced. Also, this may sound funny but you can also use brown or black shoe polish. Take a tooth brush and dab on the polish. let it sit for a few minutes then wipe off. Careful if you are doing angles, like the face armor of Liger Zero. You want to wipe so you leave polish on. I have a custom dark horn done in this. I need to get some pics up to show the results.
OH! You can also use very thin point permanent markers (ala Wal-mart) with good results.
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Post by ROss on Aug 9, 2004 9:23:54 GMT -5
i use arclic, cos if you dont shak the pot you have a watery layer which is perfect wor washig, in general i use this waterly stuf liberally, and wipe off the ecess with bog role, wolrd a traet, thought you gotta make sure the underlyeing paint id bone dry, coz i done it on my zaber custom ,ant the part ripped back to the base colour, when i done a red paint wash, though it ended up cool oz it looker like flamed from vents had stripped the paint.
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Post by HHHDX on Oct 15, 2004 22:05:28 GMT -5
Since this question gets asked constantly I decided to write up a topic about it. First, this technique is commonly referred to ask "Ink Washing" but it's actually done with paint. Secondly, you should use enamels for this, not acrylic. aww! i wish i new dat earlier!!! well i paint wid acrylic paint so now at least i know how to ink wash! |
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Post by Celestine on Dec 3, 2004 8:40:57 GMT -5
Inking and Washing is one of the easiest and most effective ways to detail a model where the fine lines are too hard to paint in...
This is Shepard Paine's method (American Grand Figure Modeller)....
*Use 1part paint and 10 parts water/thinner.
*Ensure the wash does NOT BUBBLE, if it BUBBLES, it will appear clearly on your model destroying its appearence....
Indian Ink works well unthinned... Use a 000 brush... Get one drop and place it onto a palate, or a surface for mixing paint. Then streak it until only half of the ink is remaining on the brush. Then from the highest end of the model (ie - dab the ink on the highest point and let gravity pull the rest of the ink into the lines)....
Best of Luck! PM me if you have any further questions!
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Post by Celestine on Dec 3, 2004 9:25:06 GMT -5
What I wrote above applies to both arcylic and enamel paints. When washing enamel paints generally work better as arcylics often leave behind brush streaks, but if you're careful - the streaks wont occur!
Also, someone before mentions shaking arcylic paint... Dont shake it - it only creates more air bubbles when you shake it and once dried you'll have a nasty blank spot of paint with raised edges on your paint... Use a thin metal rod or chopsticks and stir it until it is even....
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VF-1A
Corporal
Posts: 148
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Post by VF-1A on Dec 3, 2004 17:35:30 GMT -5
Does acrylic flow as nicely and smoothly as enamels? When I use an acrylic wash I've thinned it with water or rubbing alchohol, it's always globbed up, doesn't flow well at all. I've had to brush acrylic washes rather than capillary action as in the case with enamel washes.
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Post by Celestine on Dec 3, 2004 17:40:55 GMT -5
No2Blox,
that's a good question to ask. Arcylics unfortunately (as they are water based) do not flow as nicely as enamels.
Many ask "how do you get around it so it works almost like an enamel?" The answer - dont use alcohol or tap water! Use "Demineralised Water".
As the minerals in the normal water pick up and colagulate the paint more, demineralised water doesnt - as there is nothing that the paint can cling onto. So give it a try.
Also, use a 'flat/surface" brush. Applying even layers will yield the best results. Never have your paints too thick as it will colagulate too quicly - the golden ratio = 1:10 (1 part paint, 10 parts demineralised water).
If you would like to see the effects - I can email you a photo of one of my recent works using demineralised water to wash a large surface area (arcylic). PM me!
Hope this helps and Happy Modelling!
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Post by Maverick on Dec 6, 2004 20:55:49 GMT -5
can u use a black thin pen for outlining the details?
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Post by Celestine on Dec 6, 2004 22:14:48 GMT -5
Yes, but it wont be as effective as the pen will still leave pen strokes behind...
If you're going to use a pen - it'll be the same idea as using a Gundam marker. Also it wont work if you're drawing the lines on a painted surface as if you make a mistake, you'll have to clean the surface - then you run the risk of destroying the paint underneath completely....
So stick with the wash...
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Darkchu
Lieutenant
So pointy and glowy...
Posts: 325
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Post by Darkchu on Jan 2, 2005 21:32:58 GMT -5
So can you name a couple of ink types that are easy to use on zoids that haven't been customized or painted??
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NIVINCo
Major
69x57 I'll make more soon.
Posts: 986
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Post by NIVINCo on Jan 2, 2005 21:35:26 GMT -5
So can you name a couple of ink types that are easy to use on zoids that haven't been customized or painted?? Read it. |
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