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Post by rantinan on Jan 16, 2005 20:53:44 GMT -5
A good tip for getting acrylics to wash properly, it IS possible, is to us a proper paint. Mr Aqueaus Colour by Mr Hobby makes wonderful washes when it is thined with MR hobby thinner. In particular, I use multiple layers at the consistancy of milk to build up a high gloss armour sheen. A little go over with sme polishing compound on hte highlight surfaces and you're done. It's not as good as an airbrush, but it is a LOT cheaper. If you're realy realy stuffed for choice (I've lived in areas where I could get citadel paints or artist's gaunche) it IS possible to make a decent wash out of a citadel paint. The use of deionized water is essental for this. Fortunately anywhere in Australia that's that backward has bloody awful water and britta water filters (plug plug) are readily available. Take a paint bottle, pour the contents into another bottle, and then fill what remains with the deionized water. This should flow nicely. It may be a little thick on your armour surfaces, particularly curved ones, so a good sponge for wiping the model is recomended. The problem is it takes a metric AGE to dry, so leave it at least 12 hours.
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Post by adamassc on Jan 17, 2005 14:50:04 GMT -5
hey, has anyone here ever used Reaper miniatures paint? one of them is actually called Black Ink Wash and I'm kinda curious how well it would turn out
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Post by Celestine on Jan 17, 2005 18:48:29 GMT -5
Ink is different to a wash.
Ink in general is a different pigmented paint (with very watery fluid like consistancy). Inks when applied require to be thinned (unless you're using Indian ink).
I would recommend ink if you want your model to have a gloss look, but otherwise, I personally advise against it. Furthermore, inking is to allow further highlights to be done to the model as it creates a depth of warm in the colour. So for example: yellow paint with some yellowish orange ink, would add warmth and depth to the model. But once again, it is the look you're going for.
Reaper miniatures paint I personally dont like (slower drying time and often harder to thin out even though its designed for tabletop gaming models). If you're going to buy miniature paint, I personally suggest you buy Vallejo (THE BEST PAINTS I"VE EVER USED), or Citadel Paints (from games workshop). Or you can try Ral-pahor (but once again, same as reaper miniatures paints - not highly recommended, but they do make some odd colours no one else does).
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Post by grim on Jan 17, 2005 21:24:27 GMT -5
is there any way i could fill a cup with something like two parts water and one part paint or die then dip in a piece i want inkwashed take it out quickley then shake the piece off? would that possibly give me an inkwash effect seeing that the water would stick in all the crevices and corners?
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Post by rantinan on Jan 17, 2005 22:05:29 GMT -5
*shudders dramaticaly* I tried that once about 10 years ago. my sugestion is DONT!
If you like i'll track down the poor little miniture which I did that to and send you a piccie, but it's beyond ugly.
The dip will apply horribly unevenly. The "shake" will cause the paint to pool in unnatural places. you will take one look ath the dried result and want to claw your eyes out.
Stick to washing with a cotton bud or a brush. It's a lot more controlable, and doesent take that much time.
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VF-1A
Corporal
Posts: 148
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Post by VF-1A on Jan 19, 2005 15:18:07 GMT -5
thanks for the tips on the acrylic wash, but I'll stick with my simple enamel wash. Too much work to get the acrylic working as nicely as an enamel wash..lol
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VF-1A
Corporal
Posts: 148
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Post by VF-1A on Jan 19, 2005 15:25:47 GMT -5
I don't think has been mentioned, but this is probably the most important aspect of doing a wash. I just skimmed the posts so sue me if this was already mentioned When you do a wash, make sure you know what your base/main paint is (ie what you paitned the model with). If the base is enamel, than you should do an acrylic wash. Or you can protect the enamel base coat with an acrylic clear coat (this is what I do) and do an enamel wash. If your base coat is acrylic than do an enamel wash. Why is this important? Because when you do a wash, it gets messy and the excess needs to be cleaned off. Acrylics can be cleaned off with windex (or any other ammonia based window cleaner), rubbing alchohol or just plaint water. Enamels are tougher and needs to be cleaned off with paint thinner, varsol or mineral spirits. If you're unsure what your base coat is, simply test it by whipping a bit with the windex or rubbing alchohol. If the paint rubs off it's acrylic if it doesn't it's enamel. There's also lacquer based paints, but you are pretty rare. They require their own thinner aswell.
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Post by Celestine on Jan 19, 2005 18:36:27 GMT -5
Think I did mention that enamels are more recommended for washing, but arcylics too can also achieve the same results if used correctly. I personally use acrylic and on the rare occasion enamel as the enamel paint to thinner ratio takes much longer to get right, thus I go the easy approach of just adding a set amount of acrylic paint to thinner ratio, which works perfect everytime.
I've just recently started playing with enamels again recently after a long 10 years of using acrylics. Once again I think its personal preference for what you decide to use for paints. I personally like acrylic for painting larger details (Gunze acrylics or Tamiya), and for average sized detail (Gunze), then for washing - Gunze acrylic/enamel, Tamiya acrylic, Vallejo acrylic or Citadel arcylic.
Dipping your model into thinned paint is a big no no as Ranitnan mentioned. It leaves ugly grubby marks everywhere and furthermore, it'll sometimes show where your fingers have been while extracting the model. So I dont recommend it at all.
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Sineater
Sergeant
Experiencing intermittent bursts of creativity.
Posts: 282
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Post by Sineater on Feb 17, 2005 11:31:03 GMT -5
Adding this because it does not appear to have been covered yet. I wash bare plastic a lot with Zoids and the better Gundam models if the plastic color is good, because I'm lazy and impatient. ;D I used to wash with enamels exclusively, but have switched to washing with acrylics or ink on bare plastic. Some plastics will fade and weaken when you wash them with enamels because the thinner soaks in to the plastic. This seems to happen mostly with softer or cheaper plastic, but I've also had it happen with plastic that appeared to be good quality. Testor Modelmaster acryl gunmetal has worked pretty well. As described in previous posts, mix it thin (10:1 ratio) with demineralized water or acrylic thinner and it washes nicely. Ink washes bare plastic really well, but ink washes are very delicate. Even skin oil can take ink off of bare plastic. I only recommend an ink wash if you are going to clear coat your critter. Also, ink fades over time. Turns indigo/purple. Clear coating seems to delay the fading, but may not prevent it.
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Post by Abaddon on Mar 31, 2005 9:32:31 GMT -5
Ink Washing? Thinner and Paint Mixture? I just paint in the panel line with a fine brush ;D
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Post by AlphaZoid on Jun 14, 2005 13:15:13 GMT -5
I do my detailed "inkwork" using my own little invention: The Toothpick
Just dip the end in your paint and go over the details. Works great for me. ;D
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Post by Cody G on Jun 16, 2005 15:03:11 GMT -5
i heard you had to dry out ink and put paint on a brush and mix it with the dried ink and then paint the creveses
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Post by Celestine on Oct 27, 2005 21:26:33 GMT -5
Here's another method which is even harder....
Use artists oils. Thin the mixture down similar to that of the enamal consistency. Then you use the capiliary action to get the panel lines in. Drip your brush into the wach and continue where the thinned mixture stops to continue the panel line. Allow it to dry at least 12 hours, then spray a clear coat to seal it or it'll smear...
This is a really good method of doing it as its simple, but smears easily if you're not careful!
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Post by DrakeRunner on Jan 6, 2006 11:41:07 GMT -5
Just a few quick questions for the Washing Gurus.
A: What would be the results of using colors instead of black?
B: Is there anything I can do about that "gummy" feeling left over?
C: I'm worried about applying a wash to something I've already painted, since I'm applying thinner either way. What can I do?
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Post by Celestine on Jan 6, 2006 18:24:09 GMT -5
Drake, here are a few answers for you...
A) It really depends on the main colour of your model. It also depends on what kind of look you want. In short, if you want a more realistic look, you'd be using more a dark "German Grey" rather than the standard black. But if you want a more anime look, then go with a black. Furthermore if your main colour is light (ie White), use gray instead of black as black would seem un-natural. For instance, take a look at a white car. You will notice that the panel lines are more 'grey' rather than 'black' due to the brightness of the paint surrounding it. Hope that is easier to understand.
B) the Gummy bits will depend on what sort of paint your using - ie, acrylic or enamal or oils. If you're using enamals and make a mistake, remove it immediately with thinning and try to avoid the paint from crazing. If you're using acrylics, just remove it immediately as well or wait till it dries and use a white plastic eraser and gently rub it (note that this will leave a more 'gloss' finish on that section of paint as it would considered to be buffed, so just give it a final layer of clear coat to get a even finish). Finally for artists oils, just wait till it drys and remove it with a cotton bud applicator or tissue.
You really should be having a gummy left over finish if you're thinning the paint appropriately. So it just depends on the paint consistency and also the type of paint you're using. Like always, if you can tell me what kind of paint and also provide a photo, I'd be able to aid you more in this regards.
C) Provided you're not using a lacquer over acrylic or enamel you're pretty safe. Here is something that you should keep in mind.... Lacquers will craze acrylics and enamel paints if painted on top but wont the other way around. Enamels cannot be painted on properly over acrylics, but works the other way around (as in acrylics on enamels). And oils will go on any surface. But once again, oils is probably one of the most difficult ways of going about washing. So go with your capability levels.
Best recommended tools would be a 00 brush, a tooth pick or thin brass rod and use the capilary action of gravity to pull the paint down (so put the paint from the top of the panel line, and allow gravity to pull it down, then repeat again where the flow stops. Hope this helps!
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