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Post by Leon35 on Feb 15, 2016 16:16:54 GMT -5
I asked this years ago on ZP but the kit has been sitting in my room for 2-3 years, untouched, all because of how ginger I have been with how I want it painted. This time, I have some updated questions so I can finally get this done.
* Does anime accurate darker/deeper/saturated blue and purple look better than the light colors on the stock kit? What is your personal preference? * What are the best colors to use to make the geno anime accurate? * What is the most fitting gunmetal paint for the guns and vents and hydrolics? * Should I keep the vanilla colors? If so what should I paint to make the kit look professional?
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Post by Maethius on Feb 15, 2016 19:02:07 GMT -5
Colors: personal preference... almost any colors look better than stock Koto kit colors! (Sorry, Koto, I love your designs, but just shake my head at your color choices sometimes). Best colors: I'd have to research that one, especially since I tend to bump mine into "realistic mode" and favor a more military flavor to my kits. Best Gunmetal paint: I have been using Testor's Metalizers, but another favorite I've been sneaking in for a few customs now is Black Graphite Metallic... it's very dark gray with a nice sheen that looks a touch more exciting that either gray or black. Vanilla: I prefer chocolate. However, one thing you could do (apart from panel lining) is to use a panel shading technique, especially if you use airbrush. Something like the Max technique.
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Post by Tilly on Feb 16, 2016 1:05:48 GMT -5
The stock kit's blue is glorious and I love it. In my opinion it also matches Riese's tunic thing better than the anime model's blue did, so ppbbbbt to the anime blue. But if you want some screenshots to color match from I can grab some?
The only thing I bothered painting in the end (HMMs make me grumpy to start, my Riesegeno's molding was...a mess) was the grey pieces in the head—I added silver detail to the raised parts, as they look flat otherwise and other parts of the Zoid have painted silver bits. Actually, I think it's one of the only HMM kits to NOT have any really weird colors on it stock, and said painted silver especially helps in looking good (no flat grey teeth!). If I had been inclined to at least detail/clearcoat mine, I might have been tempted to grey/silverify (greyish silver? light gunmetal? something like that) the grey parts, though sadly I can't recommend a particular paint there. I know I had a test of some assorted silvers and gunmetals somewhere, but it was on Fire Fox frames, and I don't want to do another as WOW do the Tamiya acrylic metallics I tried smell bad. Vallejo's are much less...nasty.
I wish I'd also painted either silver or white (maybe metallic white? I'd have to test on a spare piece of frame) behind the clear blue eye bits so they popped better, but they're so wedged into the head I doubt they're coming back out without breaking or cracking something. That's the main painting advice I can offer, I guess! It's not much, but if you want to do the paint behind clear piece so it looks shinier/more visible thing with Geno eyes, do it BEFORE you even test the clear blue/red/whatever eye pieces, as they'll probably not want to come back out.
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Post by Kiske on Feb 22, 2016 19:15:47 GMT -5
I asked this years ago on ZP but the kit has been sitting in my room for 2-3 years, untouched, all because of how ginger I have been with how I want it painted. This time, I have some updated questions so I can finally get this done. * Does anime accurate darker/deeper/saturated blue and purple look better than the light colors on the stock kit? What is your personal preference? * What are the best colors to use to make the geno anime accurate? * What is the most fitting gunmetal paint for the guns and vents and hydrolics? * Should I keep the vanilla colors? If so what should I paint to make the kit look professional? It's going to be subject to what you like. What some of us deem acuracte will differ person to person. FWIW the HMM kit's have taken quite a bit of liberty in straying from the original artwork designs so I wouldn't stress over it too much. Find an example of what you like color wise and simply mix your paints as close to it as you can. You won't acheive perfection without pratice and trying. As the old saying goes, "Nothing ventured, nothing gained." Looking professional will also come with pratice. It it didn't we wouldn't refer to it as looking professional. That being said decide on how you want it to look before you begin. Break it down to the most basic decisions and work from there. Start out with "Do you want it to look showroom clean and shiney OR gritty dull and worn." Work your way down to deciding the little things. Or just look for others works and copy them until you learn the trade. If you simply are looking for a way to make a HMM kit look impressive then you can do a lot with just handpainting and highlighting the details on the frame. Just pick certain elements and break them up with a little handpainting. You can also easily hgihlight the details and add a weathered/battle look by dry brushing a lighter grey/silver over the details as it will bring out the shapes in the frame. If your airbrushing you will be hard pressed to find better metallics paints for natural metallic finishes than thoes by Alclad2... alclad2.com/finishes/regular/
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Post by Snowflake on Feb 23, 2016 16:20:59 GMT -5
It's so beautiful, but.. how could someone deface a beautiful blackbird that may or may not be Jetfire like that?
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Post by Maethius on Feb 24, 2016 11:15:15 GMT -5
Wow, those Alclad lacquers look incredible! I should invest in them. I've been tempted before, but we don't have any hobby stores around here anymore, an I tend to be a hands no buyer when it comes to supplies.
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