After seeing several of the pictures lately, and seeing how blurry some of them are, I feel like I should share some of my knowledge of cameras with you all.
Lesson #1 is on how to use Macro Focus in your pictures.
Macro Focus allows your camera to focus much closer than it normally can. Every camera should have a macro focus option. Some cameras (like Canon and Nikon) are capable of focusing as close as 5cm (2 inches) from the subject with Macro enabled.
An example of the Macro control. The universal symbol for Macro is the small flower seen here:
Here is my Konig Wolf with Macro Focus Off:
Notice how blurry my Zoid is.
Now, here is that same Konig Wolf with Macro Focus On:
See the difference?
I urge everyone here who has posted pictures of your custom Zoids that were blurry to check your camera for the Macro Focus setting. It may be a button like seen above, or in a menu screen, check around.
So that's what that little flower thingy does o.o I recall switching it off about a year ago, no wonder my pictur4s suddenly got crappy >_>
I would read the instructions, but they're in Japanese.
Point the finger, slow to understand Arrogance and ignorance go hand in hand Its not who you are its who you know Others lives are the basis of your own Burn your bridges build them back with wealth Judge not lest ye be judged yourself
With the macro mode enabled, you guys can also try playing the the manual or aperture priority modes of your camera. Set the aperture (i.e. Fstop) of the lens to a larger number, will give you greater depth of field; i.e. the area where the image is in focus.
With tyrann's king wolf, observe that the particle goggles are *slightly* out of focus, since the focus point is at the centre of the image. By using a larger F number, it is possible to acquire not only a sharper image, but one with improved depth of field (DOF) to show off your zoid!
Note that with this technique, if you aren't using flash, its recommended to use a tripod, unless your shooting area is very brightly lit. Secondly, if you are using the flash, this could cause your background to be quite dim. A quick remedy would be to lower your shutter speed (smaller number e.g. 1/30, 1/15). But this again may require a tripod. You can try to compensate abit by increase the ISO rating of the digital sensor.
Last Edit: Jul 16, 2004 4:03:29 GMT -5 by GallenWolf
i've just been getting photography tutorials at uni (apparently its a really improtant part of architecture), any way, when it comes to the size of your camera, as in pixil size, as if you take the photos well ther is no reall difference betweena 1.3 million pixil, and a 4 million, if you print off an a4 pic, there is very little difference( if you have taken it well), its only when you start to blow them up the difference becomes clear. Also always use a tri-pod, even if it is like a mini-tri pod, like mine that only raises the cam 3 inches off the deck, it is still alot more stable than holding it and so gives sharper pictres as tou dont he a wobble from you pressing down the shutter button, which insidentally only seems to happen on digis so i did warn you. A flash, is also a bad thing whan taking close up pics of a model, infact when taking pics in doos, it is always better to light them than use a flash, as a flash flattens out any detail. Ok, next the surface you take it on, try to mak the back ground and the actuall surface match in colour, and obviously use a dark back ground for light objects and a light for dark, if you are lighting the object using lamps, even asmall desk lamp will do nicely, have the surface away from the back ground, as the lamp light will show up every flaw in the back ground and you will not have such a defined join between the back ground img.photobucket.com/albums/v57/Jaffroman87/IMAG0017.jpg in this example the surface is only 1 inch away from the back wall, and if you direct your attention to the right hand side, where the back ground ends and the wall begind, you can see how it liooks as though it is one surface, on the left the surface is flush with the wall and you can clearly see the join, also a food hint is not to take pictures in a corner always take them against a flat wall ( the model incidently is made from kapaboard and was used in my investigations into how light and shadow react on surfaces). Hint the best thing to use for a back ground is a sheet, as theye is little to no reflection of light from it which can spoil a photo. ok thats me done, or the mo, i'll probs post more crud as i learn it