ligerzilla2014
Sergeant
"Gojiraaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!"~ Random Japanese Guy
Posts: 244
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Post by ligerzilla2014 on Aug 14, 2010 8:18:00 GMT -5
with the release of the revoltech blade liger and hmm liger zero, i realized something... I DON'T KNOW HOW TO PAINT A MODEL. I've never had a model that required paint before. can someone help me out
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Post by Maethius on Aug 16, 2010 11:10:00 GMT -5
I hate to say it, but the best way to paint a kit is to... well... paint it. I personally use Testors enamel paints with a fine brush and standard thinner. Almost everyone panel lines their kits these days, which I would recommend doing first because it's easier to do on new plastic rather than paint. There are tips for that around here as well, but I'll just say that I thin the hell out of some dark paint (usually black, but sometimes you can use a much darker, flat color of the piece color you are working on... dark blue on blue, deep red with red, etc.) On any of my kits I paint hydraulic cylinders brass and pistons in chrome; usually springs, too. This scheme matches some of the stock parts on HMM kits, too. Other than that I do dark leather on seats and very subtle weathering on some parts to bring out edge details; smoke or soot on vents, etc.
I highly recommend you look around the Net for modeling sites with detailed pics on how they do what they do with tank and aircraft kits, since there are many similarities between Zoids and modern weaponry.
Super basics: Get a fine brush (Model Master 00 is good) Enamels: flat black, flat brass, chrome/silver Enamel Thinner Old t-shirts make fine rags, especially for panel lining
Good luck!
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ligerzilla2014
Sergeant
"Gojiraaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!"~ Random Japanese Guy
Posts: 244
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Post by ligerzilla2014 on Aug 17, 2010 9:07:38 GMT -5
thanks that helped a lot. one question though, the hmm liger zero is the model that i need to paint do you think i should go with a high gloss acryillic or more of dull paint
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Post by Maethius on Aug 17, 2010 11:13:12 GMT -5
I almost never use high gloss... in many cases go with the military equivalents of other colors, they tend to be either matte or semi-gloss and blend the best with model kits. I found that strategically using high gloss can yield some great results, but usually only subtly. On my latest custom, the Hellstorm, I used dull red inside the targeting scopes and then added a thick, smooth dot of high gloss clear for a lens after it dried. The pics don't give it justice, but the gloss totally stands out against the flatter paint to look like glass camera lenses. One place you might want to use a gloss paint would be on the hydraulic pistons; hydraulics tend to have a super shiney, wet-oily look because they are constantly lubricated and moving, so dirt doesn't settle on them. The cylinders themselves can be more of a matte, but the pistons should gleam. I'm actually looking for a better chrome to really make them stand out. Just be careful on HMM kits... if the pistons actually work, painting them might gum them up or scrape.
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ligerzilla2014
Sergeant
"Gojiraaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!"~ Random Japanese Guy
Posts: 244
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Post by ligerzilla2014 on Aug 18, 2010 9:24:56 GMT -5
okcool. itstobad that the revoltech bladey doesn't need painting otherwise i'd probably paint with the color scheme of leon's blade or black impact
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Post by Tilly on Aug 18, 2010 16:07:58 GMT -5
Acrylic > enamel to me, even if it requires clearcoat when you're done. That may be the fact enamel fumes are toxic and make me sick talking, so if enamel doesn't bother you and you have good ventillation, it's probably easier for small details.
But yes, high gloss paints are a pain in the butt. If you want mirror-shiny, be prepared to swear at them a lot >_>. I disagree with Maethius in that I think large amounts of models can look just fine done gloss, but only if they're meant to be HI I'M SHINY rather than ~serious war machines~. Contrast is important, too—everything glossy makes what gloss is there "pop" less.
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Post by Maethius on Aug 19, 2010 9:47:41 GMT -5
Tilly's point is valid. It really depends on what look you are after. We've all seen the incredible Gundams painted like a real life unit that's seen action for months, neglected in all but the simplest maintainance... paint blanched, scratches unattended, nozzles scorched. We've also all seen the marvelous "prototype snapshot" look, like when a brand new fighter is rolled out of the assembly plant for the first promotional shots... super glossy, gorgeous decals, buffed meticulously from nose to tail. For me, it seems that weathering and wear are easier to accomplish than making a kit new/shiny, but both can look great on your shelf.
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ligerzilla2014
Sergeant
"Gojiraaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!"~ Random Japanese Guy
Posts: 244
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Post by ligerzilla2014 on Aug 19, 2010 17:15:09 GMT -5
which paint is the glossiest, acryllic, enamel, or laquer
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Post by Maethius on Aug 20, 2010 9:26:34 GMT -5
I can't really say, as I almost never work in acrylic, and tend toward the matte colors. Of the glossies I have used, enamels can have a glass-like sheen, depending on the colors.
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ligerzilla2014
Sergeant
"Gojiraaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!"~ Random Japanese Guy
Posts: 244
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Post by ligerzilla2014 on Aug 20, 2010 16:26:11 GMT -5
really, i always thought acryillic was the glossiest. also, i'm thinking about painting the hmm zero with the empire coloring.
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Post by Snowflake on Aug 20, 2010 17:22:36 GMT -5
It seems to me you'd only want gloss on the colored parts (as opposed to the grey/black/silver undercarriage), and even then only if it was supposed to be "showroom new" just the blue on a shield liger, just the white on a commandwolf, etc.. a brand new car would have that kind of paint, I somehow doubt zoids have that kind of paint (or any paint?) since it'd flake off so easily
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ligerzilla2014
Sergeant
"Gojiraaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!"~ Random Japanese Guy
Posts: 244
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Post by ligerzilla2014 on Aug 21, 2010 10:47:55 GMT -5
so i'd only use slightly glossy paint the aromor/ C.A.S's for the liger zero. and. i think i will go or the showroom new look. i will probably go for a more battle hardend look if they come out with the zero jager and panzer. those would be perfect because of the ion boosters and cannons.
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Post by Maethius on Aug 25, 2010 7:26:00 GMT -5
/agrees with Snowflake
If everything is totally glossy, nothing stands out. For me the ideal would be semi-showroom meets real battle. A well kept military machine would be maintained, including paint, but would still have a bit of dust, exhaust, soot, oil, and possibly a few paint chips on the feet/lower legs (I do think this is appropriate for a giant running cat machine, as opposed to an Abrams tank). Also, I think the gloss armor look would be good training for a newer painter.
I would definitely consider an attempt at subtle panel lining, though. Panel lining is one of the painting techniques that will serve you better than any other... a kit well lined, even if that's all you do the the kit, stands out from the shelf.
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ligerzilla2014
Sergeant
"Gojiraaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!"~ Random Japanese Guy
Posts: 244
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Post by ligerzilla2014 on Aug 25, 2010 12:32:45 GMT -5
thanks that helped a lot. i wish i had more models to practice on but i'm kinda stuck for zoids. my collection magically disappeared five years ago when i was 8 and i can't remeber what happened to it.
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Post by Snowflake on Aug 25, 2010 21:40:21 GMT -5
oh, or, (maybe someone mentioned this already) glossy paint on the parts that are meant to be literally dripping in lubricant.. but then that makes me think of that thing I saw on dirty jobs, that moves space shuttle parts along a crushed-stone path, with massive treads.. and the treads have a thick oil that's just caked in rock bits.. I bet if you tossed some sand onto wet paint on a zoid, you could get a nice effect... and probably completely ruin its ability to walk
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