bill
Lieutenant
Posts: 326
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CAPS!
Oct 11, 2022 18:14:03 GMT -5
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Post by bill on Oct 11, 2022 18:14:03 GMT -5
One more thought. As I've stated before on it only measures the o.d.(outside dimensions) . So when adding .1mm that is the whole since we have 2 walls and a hole essentially that .1mm is divided by percentages of the whole in each of thier own perspectives and those walls actually get thicker when adding dimensions. It would be easier to explain on paper, but i hope you get the concept. The whole dimensions in crease is .1mm but each wall increased a percentage of the whole that they are and the hole would increase it's percentage of the whole as well and finally .05mm for each outside. Oh and I'd be doing that in 2 of the 3 dimensions height would still remain the same. Ok I'm done being a geek.
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CAPS!
Oct 12, 2022 14:44:26 GMT -5
Post by Snowflake on Oct 12, 2022 14:44:26 GMT -5
Actually that makes sense to me. you can't just scale it up, you have to specifically alter the hole part
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bill
Lieutenant
Posts: 326
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CAPS!
Oct 12, 2022 16:45:08 GMT -5
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Post by bill on Oct 12, 2022 16:45:08 GMT -5
Actually that makes sense to me. you can't just scale it up, you have to specifically alter the hole part here is a screen shot of one of the caps. See how many surfaces you are dealing with. Lots of time to grab all surfaces involved then move them. It is easier just to cope with the whole being adjusted completely.
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bill
Lieutenant
Posts: 326
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CAPS!
Oct 13, 2022 13:55:12 GMT -5
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Post by bill on Oct 13, 2022 13:55:12 GMT -5
To clarify. Each triangle in the cap pic represents a surface. So we are talking about 1000's of surfaces. Each grab is a click in succession. If I screw up tring to link them all for the move I must start completely over again. You have no idea how frustrating it is to have 100's grabbed then you try to move the camera to see other surfaces and it miss interpreted what I'm doing and unlinks all I've grabbed and I must start over.
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CAPS!
Oct 13, 2022 14:51:41 GMT -5
Post by Snowflake on Oct 13, 2022 14:51:41 GMT -5
round things are still very tough for polygons.. i'm sure there's a simpler way, just extruding circular tubes, capping them off, and precision rotating them while carving the lines into them, but that would be a different machine...
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bill
Lieutenant
Posts: 326
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Post by bill on Oct 13, 2022 19:26:26 GMT -5
I'm not really extruding anything. I have an extruder type 3d printer, but for this and most of my printing I use my resin 3d printer. This cap for example I would be placing this model on my build plate with the hole facing the build plate. When it prints. There is a vat holding uv reactive resin with a clear bottom. This build plate comes down inside the vat until it touches the bottom. Below the vat a screen will shoot a uv picture of the 1st layer of the sliced build. This layer is a 100th of a mm thick. After this it lifts the build plate up with that exposure then sets it back down for the next exposure building layer by layer until the whole object is complete. A small build in height such as this would only be 300 or so layers maybe more. I won't know how many layers until it starts as I never actually check layer counts until it shows up on the screen of my printer. I can check it in my printer's software when I do my conversion of an stl file to a chitubox file but never do. During that process of conversion is where I would be making any adjustments to a model in it's dimensions x,y and z(length, width and height). The screen shot I gave was from my phone's 3d modeling software. I was trying to illustrate what I would be dealing with when enlarging an object. You wanted to adjust just the hole. I was illustrating because it is impractical and very time consuming to do so. It is much simpler to accept all elements enlarging, except of height than to deal with the manipulation of such a vast amount of surfaces. Extruder type printers are another animal completely. They melt a plastic filament of assorted types then extrude it out a .2 to .6 mm nozzle and lay down melted plastic on thier build plate and build upward layer by layer until an object is created. Both types of printers have their place. However for better quality of a print go with a resin printer. They are starting to come out with some very interesting formulas of resins. One I recently saw once built the object can be put into an oven for 'sintering' thus creating a metal object. That resin is new and a bit pricey. But it fills my dreams of making one of these zoids in metal one day. A real metal rhimos! Whoot! Other resins like for this topic would require a flexible finished product. I just researched a bit after chiming in on this one. I found a very nice flexible type I need to order. Syratech tenacious resin seems to fit the needs here. With the exception of highly limited colors however. What you decribed kind of reminds me of pasta making machines. Extruding the pasta thru the mold of the type of pasta you are making. That would be highly impractical 3d printing wise. The millions of nozzles one would have to have on hand for each application. Come to think of it. My current job is exactly that. Extruder operator. I work for a company that makes plastic boards. Extruding melted plastic thru dies then into an outside dimensions mold continually making an endless board of the dimensions required for that job lot. Yes I work in plastics. Then hobby in plastics. Then collect these plastic models. Oh no that song just rolled thru my head again. Pictures of plastic man and you.Anyway I hope I cleared up things a bit for you.
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